THE PERFECT HOLD : MY EXPERIENCE WITH ROCK CLIMBING
Its always further than it looks. Its always taller than it looks. And its always harder than it looks.
- Reinhold Messner
“Belay loose!”, was my call and within fraction of second I was hanging in the middle of 80 ft long mountain wall with the support of single rope after my legs got slipped from the hold.
ITBP is considered one of most accomplished mountain force of the world and often respected for the feats its personnels have achieved time and again. We, young officer trainees are also expected to master the skill of taming these mountains and for which we are supposed to learn introductory mountaineering. It is 4 day module which is part of basic training which a young officer has to clear with good grading so that he can effectively survive the challenges the Himalayas will be posing in front of him during service.
The night previous to our first day was full of anxiety which was less due to fear and more due to excitement. I had always thought that what skill people possessed who so swiftly climbed these mountain and what was like to reach the peak. The struggle and determination people show to reach to top and that satisfaction and relief reaching the top. All these feelings were making me restless, that a dream is about to come true. With all these feeling I forcefully closed my eyes and didn’t realised when I went into slumber.
Next morning we marched to begin our day one. We reached the rock area (place where all the mountaineering activities take place) by 0800 hrs. After having our breakfast, we were introduced to our instructors and we were given brief introduction about what we were going learn in coming days. The entire rock climbing module in basic training is divided in to six parts viz. introduction to knots, balance climbing, knotted climbing, seat repelling, body repelling and stomach repelling. One of the fundamental skills that a good climber need to possess is the comfort level he has with knots. You are expected to not only have confidence in the knots that you have tied but also the idea of which knot to use when. We were taught close to 10 to 12 knots where each knot had specific purpose. After some practice with knots we were introduced to important mountaineering equipment. After seeing those tools, I was wonderstruck with the perfection with which they were made. With the completion of all the basic teaching, the first event which I was detailed for was seat rappelling. In mountaineering terminology rappelling means to descend down the rock using rope in controlled manner. Every step which I was taking toward edge of cliff was filling me with trepidation and feeling which one rarely experiences. To add on to I was also first one of my batch who initiated any kind of rappelling. After all the preliminary preparation I was given signal to descend and was made to stand to on the edge of cliff. I was able sense every breath that I was taking, inch of every air that was gushing across my body. It is a feeling which could be experienced only when done. The initial two steps were the most difficult steps I ever traversed in my life. Every step which I was taking to descend was filling me with hope of living another moment. I was not myself for those initial 5 minutes. Every strength which I had in my body was diverted to my hand, and my legs were feeble and fragile with no sense in them. The only focus was towards keeping them fix on the mighty wall which was standing in front of me. With all the pain my hands were going through, I was able to reach and the first step which I placed on ground was the most cherished one since the time I don’t even remember. But the satisfaction of achieving something significant, of defeating fear and killing my alter ego was clearly felt from within.
An example of Repelling
This event was followed by knotted climbing, body rappelling and stomach rappelling but day had something more in it for me.
After that I was detailed for balance climbing. In this event we were tied with bow line knot and then with rope, which was controlled by belayer. One is supposed to climb the mountain wall by finding the hole as per his own discretion and support from belayer. After successfully completing majority of event I was confident of my performance in balance climbing and was clear with the route I had planned to take. After being tied with the rope and giving signal to belayer I began my ascend. The 30 % of my climb was perfect but suddenly I took wrong step and advanced toward a wrong route. After couple of more steps I suddenly felt some difficulty in finding perfect holds and stuck in location for very long time. After finding no way up I started panicking and was forced to take the step which shouldn’t be taken. I signalled the belayer, “Belay loose” and the very next moment I lost control over my body and within a fraction I was hanging along that cliff. The fear had overpowered me in all manner and my mind was numb with no sense of decision making left. For next couple of minute I was in anaesthetizing state. After a moment I gathered my sense and courage, the fraction of which was left and started again looking for holds. With some grit and courage along with some support from belayers I was able to find some holds and began my ascend again. There was nothing which I could sense in my both the hands. The only goal was to reach the top as soon as possible and get over with this. After all the struggle I was finally able to reach the top and that feeling had no expression. There was only content and satisfaction. I wanted to shout but had no energy left, I wanted to cry but there were no tear to drop. The only thing which could be felt was the nudge of air.
An example of Balance Climbing
For the next 3 days we were supposed to go through same activities in order to gain some expertise. The entire module was an experience which very few lucky one are made to go through and I was one of them. The people who were training us were some of the finest mountaineers of the country at the moment.
The very feeling of overcoming the fear and testing our limit made this entire duration fruitful. All those stories of successfully climbing the peaks by Indian came flashing by and I realised the level of hard work and mental conditioning one has to go through to achieve these feats.
In ITBP mountaineering is no adventure, it is a necessity which we have to master in order to successfully discharge our duties. These skills can help one in do or die conditions specially when one has to serve major part of his duties on these mighty peaks.
Finally I would like to conclude by appreciating all the great mountaineer who have once seen the world below them from these peaks.
